About us Men Suit Gallery Women Suit Gallery

 

 

 

Dress Shirt FAQ ONLINE STORE  (All prices in US$ & postage paid) Our Prices (From $260) Accessories Our fabric Suppliers Return Policy Privacy Policy

 

Tailor's Advices (Style, Fabric...) CONTACT & Testimonials Return to Homepage

WHAT TYPE OF SUIT SHOULD YOU WEAR?

 

Your suit should represent the perfect image of yourself.

The following article is a simple guide including the most common options.
Unfortunately it doesn’t include everything concerning tailoring. Fabric, canvas and most uncommon choices for patterns, pleats… aren’t featuring in this article. I recommend for people having more specific questions to contact us at info@australiantailor.com
 
First question, are you going to wear this suit for work/business, formal/wedding?
 
For business remaining as neutral as possible is the solution. You won't wear a white or red suit to meet with some clients. So Black, Dark Grey, Navy Blue, Dark Brown should be your colours.
For formal depending on its standing, you might also opt for those same neutral colours and possibly think of wearing a Tuxedo. A tuxedo should be black! Something not black and called Tuxedo is NOT a tuxedo.
For a wedding, well it will depend on your role.
Are you just a guest? Are you the groom or one of the groom men? The groom is king in a wedding and groom men should wear assorted or/and complemented suits in accordance with the groom suit's colour. Let's say the groom wears a cream colour suit with a chocolate brown tie, groom men would usually wear suits in the colour of the tie. Obviously if the groom wears a red tie, the groom men won't wear a red suit. Harmony is the rule and the groom would certainly have an idea of the colour he wants his groom men to wear. So if you are the groom men, talk to the groom and/or the other groom men.
If you are the groom, well you are the king and again harmony is the rule. Talk to your future wife, knowing the colour of her dress is particularly important. Your suit might reflect one of her colours. Could be a coloured detail in her dress or the colour of her bouquet for example. The tendencies those last years were most likely clear colours such as light grey, ivory, cream, kaki. As a tailor by profession, I haven't sold a lot of black suits for groom recently.
If you are just the guest of the wedding, have fun by wearing what you really want. If you feel like wearing a burgundy suit, you should.
The only colours you should avoid are basically the colours worn by the groom men and the groom! So if the groom wears a white suit, don't wear white. If the groom men are dressed in cream, don't wear cream. Only exceptions, those famous neutral colours listed above. Wear any of them is also ok in a wedding and even if the groom or groom men are going to wear that same neutral colour.
 
Stripes or not? Subtle stripes work quite well with all occasions.
White stripes on black is perhaps the exception to the rule as there’s nothing wrong wearing stripes even if they can be seen a mile away. If you like it, why not?
At the end of the day, you are going to wear this suit and stripes even the loudest in neutral colours are acceptable whatever the occasion is.
 
Let’s talk about style now. Basically it's not so hard to dress appropriately. What you know best is how you look and there're a few tips and rules to follow.
First of all, the type of collar:
The 2 most common collars these days are with notched lapels or peak lapels. Notched is more often used for business suits. Peak lapels will usually be on formal suits including tuxedos. They are also often used on double breasted suit jackets. My tip is to wear double breasted jacket if you are overweight. You will look slimmer.
Other types of lapels: Shawl (also named Roll collar) and Nehru (also named Mao or Chinese collar). Shawl is commonly found on dinner jackets. It gives a very special look as it is all curvy. The look you can't have for work for example. Nehru is also used for formals and sometimes for weddings. Looks like collars traditionally found on Asian uniforms. Definitely get it to mark your difference.
My tip: Stick to notched collar unless you’ve got a special occasion coming.
 
Buttons: Should you wear one, two, three ...buttons jackets? Over 3 buttons jackets should be exclusively for formal and wedding & preferably for tall or/and slim people. If you are a bit overweight, don't go over the 2 buttons jackets. 
 
Tip: If your jacket's got more than 1 button, leave the bottom one, unbuttoned.
 
Vents: A vent is a slit at the bottom back of the jacket. Most suits in stores would have one middle vent or 2 sided vents. Italian style would commonly have no vent at all. I won't recommend this to anyone. Vents add to the comfort of the jacket and otherwise having no vent looks quite un-stylish. I would recommend 2 sided vents to people having large thighs.
 
Trousers: Flat front (no pleat), one pleat or 2 pleats?
 
Overweight? 2 pleats will fit you better.
For a suit you are going to wear often and for a younger look, flat front pants is your best bet.
If your suit is a way to show how classic, elegant you are or if you are the type of wearing your trousers high and doing a lot of formals, pleats would be your choice.
 
 
Waist Coat or not? Buy it. You might wear it for a formal or to keep you warmer in winter. Waist coat also comes double breasted.
 
 

 

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FABRIC

 

 

Buying a suit can be complicated, in fact it might be as complicated as buying a new car. Before entering in any store and listen to some sellers who might know less than you, at the end of the day, you are buying this suit for you and you only. Getting a proper idea of what you want to wear will avoid regrets and disappointments.
So before you are stepping in a store, tailor or clothing outlet, let's explain to you a few points that will preciously help in your choice of fabric.

 

First thing first and certainly the easiest thing to do is to define the colour you are after and have an idea about when/where you are going to wear that dream suit. Is it a suit you will be wearing while working, is it for a special occasion such as a wedding, a formal? Depending on that occasion, some colours should already be on the top of your mind. Are you going to wear this suit in Summer, in Winter, all year round?

Those are the first questions, you should ask yourself.
First tip, don't listen a seller who's going to tell you "black colour suits with everything" or even worse, that this year pink stripe fabric is the new trend. Following this type of advice will get you nowhere.

Let's talk fabrics: Suits are made with natural (also called "noble") OR/AND with synthetic fabrics.

 

The Naturals: They are thermo regulators or breathable.

1-Linen: Very light, definitely to wear when it's hot. It looks fabulous and different. It also wears like a dream however it stains and wrinkle too easily. A real nightmare. Expect your next best friend to be your dry cleaner!

2-Cotton: Wear it whenever except in Winter. Also wrinkles easily and the colours fade with time. Not the best fabric when it's too hot outside. You will look great for a while but after a few months, forget about it.

3-Tweed: Thick and heavy sheep wool for autumn and winter. I love it, it's luxurious however It will cost you quite a lot and will look quite old fashioned.

4-Flannel: Corded wool most used in grey colours in suits, definitely to wear in winter. It's soft and will keep you very warm.

5-Worsted Wool: Fine wool to wear all year round. It's durable and depending on the weave, you can choose it lighter or heavier depending on the yarn. When you are buying pure wool, that's what you are likely getting. Can be found in a blend or pure. Comes with a SUPER + a number. Larger is the number, thinner the fabric will be and more money you're going to spend however no comparison should be made between two SUPER fabrics. It really depends on the look, the feel of each fabric and what you want to do with it. To resume, a super 180's might not be better than a super 140's and vice & versa.

Cashmere Wool is a luxurious wool coming from the goat. Cashmere like Merino (considered as the finest on the planet and coming from an exclusive breed of sheep) is the finest and softest wool on the market these days. It's durable, breathable.
Merino will be warmer and dearer than Cashmere.
 

6-Tropical Wool: Lightweight wool is for hot weather quite similar to Linen with the same inconveniences (Linen still looks better). If you want to look different and have access to brighter colours, that might be the right choice.

7-Silk: You might think "I don't want something looking like a pyjama!" We aren't talking about this type of silk. Suiting silk can be compared to worsted wool except that it will look even better with time. Like for worsted wool, you can choose between light and heavier weight. Yes it's luxurious and yes you should go for it.

The Synthetics: Not so good in terms of breathability, those fabrics are most likely to be cheaper than naturals and wrinkle less or not at all. Some suits made with synthetic can even be washed in your washing machine! So for the practical and financial side of it, they are pretty good values. What about the look though?

1-Polyester: Don't buy it if it's not in a blend! Many cheap suits available in stores are made of polyester. Avoid it!

2-Microfibre: Made of Polyester and Nylon or/and Viscose. People like it because you don't need to iron it and doesn't need to dry clean however like polyester, it also looks cheap, cheap, cheap!

3-Rayon: Semi synthetic. Often used to imitate natural fabrics, it's quite comfortable and soft. However it doesn't like rain and cold. Suits made of Rayon aren't lasting long and needs to be dried clean only. It's made of viscose and natural fibres.

Last but not least, most suits these days features viscose or polyester lining trying to imitate the real thing: SILK.

The lining is the fabric inside the suit in contact with your skin. If you are lucky enough to have the choice (see with your tailor), have a go at SILK lining. It will cost you a bit more however Silk is the type of fabric getting better with time, so soft and durable. You can't match this with synthetics.
 

 

 

KEEP YOUR SUIT LONGER

 

Your suit is unique, tailored to your measures and therefore needs your particular attention.

First tip, empty your pockets before storing your suit. Never leave anything in them if not necessary. Opt for a hanger instead of the back of the chair. Keep one in your car. Preferably don’t drive with your jacket on or if you cannot take off your jacket while driving, just unbutton it.

Please don’t seat on it.

Same rule when you sit anywhere else.

Also just before sitting, pulling your pants up at the thigh just a little will avoid stretching the fabric too much.

 

DRY CLEANING.

Even if you are not wearing it everyday or often, your suit requires to be dry cleaned at least once a season. Choose a reputable dry cleaner and clean when it is really necessary. Sometimes a pressing or a steaming will do fine so don’t opt for dry cleaning systematically. If stained, do not wait any longer and spot clean rapidly.

 

HANGING YOUR SUIT.

Especially Wool needs air but generally all suits will need to breathe after wearing them. Avoid sunny or humid spots of course. When you hang them, choose wooden hangers giving your suit the perfect shape.

Also give them space. Leave a couple of centimeters between suits and other clothing you want to store together. You can opt for a breathable garment bag while hanged.

 

BRUSHING YOUR SUIT.

Use a firm bristled brush and brush your suit before wearing it and before storing it. If you are not wearing your suit for a couple of weeks, take a few minutes and brush it.

 

RESTING YOUR SUIT.

You wore your suit today? You traveled with your suit in a bag? Your new suit just arrived in a parcel? Rest your suit for three days. It will help to shed wrinkles and your suit will be able to regain its initial shape. This little tip will also help you to keep your suit like new much longer and will avoid you frequent dry cleaning.