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WHAT TYPE OF SUIT SHOULD YOU WEAR?
Your suit should represent the perfect image of yourself.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT FABRIC
Buying a suit can be complicated, in fact it might be as
complicated as buying a new car. Before entering in any store and listen to some
sellers who might know less than you, at the end of the day, you are buying this
suit for you and you only. Getting a proper idea of what you want to wear will
avoid regrets and disappointments.
So before you are stepping in a store, tailor or clothing outlet, let's explain
to you a few points that will preciously help in your choice of fabric.
First thing first and certainly the easiest thing to do is
to define the colour you are after and have an idea about when/where you are
going to wear that dream suit. Is it a suit you will be wearing while working,
is it for a special occasion such as a wedding, a formal? Depending on that
occasion, some colours should already be on the top of your mind. Are you going
to wear this suit in Summer, in Winter, all year round?
Those are the first questions, you should ask yourself.
First tip, don't listen a seller who's going to tell you "black colour suits
with everything" or even worse, that this year pink stripe fabric is the
new trend.
Following this type of advice will get you nowhere.
Let's talk fabrics: Suits are made with natural (also called "noble")
OR/AND with synthetic fabrics.
The Naturals: They are thermo regulators or breathable.
1-Linen: Very light, definitely to wear when it's hot. It looks fabulous and
different. It also wears like a dream however it stains and wrinkle too easily.
A real nightmare. Expect your next best friend to be your dry cleaner!
2-Cotton: Wear it whenever except in Winter. Also wrinkles easily and the
colours fade with time. Not the best fabric when it's too hot outside. You will
look great for a while but after a few months, forget about it.
3-Tweed: Thick and heavy sheep wool for autumn and winter. I love it, it's
luxurious however It will cost you
quite a lot and will look quite old fashioned.
4-Flannel: Corded wool most used in grey colours in suits, definitely to wear in
winter. It's soft and will keep you very warm.
5-Worsted Wool: Fine wool to wear all year round. It's durable and depending on
the weave, you can choose it lighter or heavier depending on the yarn. When you
are buying pure wool, that's what you are likely getting. Can be found in a
blend or pure. Comes with a SUPER + a number. Larger is the number, thinner the
fabric will be and more money you're going to spend however no comparison should
be made between two SUPER fabrics. It really depends on the look, the feel of
each fabric and what you want to do with it. To resume, a super 180's might not
be better than a super 140's and vice & versa.
Cashmere Wool is a luxurious wool coming from the goat. Cashmere like Merino (considered
as the finest on the planet and coming from an exclusive breed of sheep) is the
finest and softest wool on the market these days. It's durable, breathable.
Merino will be warmer and dearer than Cashmere.
6-Tropical Wool: Lightweight wool is for hot weather quite similar to Linen with the
same inconveniences (Linen still looks better). If you want to look different
and have access to brighter colours, that might be the right choice.
7-Silk: You might think "I don't want something looking like a pyjama!" We
aren't talking about this type of silk. Suiting silk can be compared to worsted
wool except that it will look even better with time. Like for worsted wool, you
can choose between light and heavier weight. Yes it's luxurious and yes you
should go for it.
The
Synthetics: Not so good in terms of breathability, those fabrics are most likely
to be cheaper than naturals and wrinkle less or not at all. Some suits made with
synthetic can even be washed in your washing machine! So for the practical and
financial side of it, they are pretty good values. What about the look though?
1-Polyester: Don't buy it if it's not in a blend! Many cheap suits available in
stores are made of polyester. Avoid it!
2-Microfibre: Made of Polyester and Nylon or/and Viscose. People like it because
you don't need to iron it and doesn't need to dry clean however like polyester,
it also looks cheap, cheap, cheap!
3-Rayon: Semi synthetic. Often used to imitate natural fabrics, it's quite
comfortable and soft. However it doesn't like rain and cold. Suits made of Rayon aren't
lasting long and needs to be dried clean only. It's made of viscose and natural fibres.
Last but not least, most suits these days features viscose or polyester lining
trying to imitate the real thing: SILK.
The lining is the fabric inside the suit in contact with
your skin. If you are lucky enough to have the choice (see with your tailor),
have a go at SILK lining. It will cost you a bit more however Silk is the type
of fabric getting better with time, so soft and durable. You can't match this
with synthetics.
KEEP YOUR SUIT LONGER
Your suit is unique, tailored to your measures and therefore needs your particular attention.
First tip, empty your pockets before storing your suit. Never leave anything in them if not necessary. Opt for a hanger instead of the back of the chair. Keep one in your car. Preferably don’t drive with your jacket on or if you cannot take off your jacket while driving, just unbutton it.
Please don’t seat on it.
Same rule when you sit anywhere else.
Also just before sitting, pulling your pants up at the thigh just a little will avoid stretching the fabric too much.
DRY CLEANING.
Even if you are not wearing it everyday or often, your suit requires to be dry cleaned at least once a season. Choose a reputable dry cleaner and clean when it is really necessary. Sometimes a pressing or a steaming will do fine so don’t opt for dry cleaning systematically. If stained, do not wait any longer and spot clean rapidly.
HANGING YOUR SUIT.
Especially Wool needs air but generally all suits will need to breathe after wearing them. Avoid sunny or humid spots of course. When you hang them, choose wooden hangers giving your suit the perfect shape.
Also give them space. Leave a couple of centimeters between suits and other clothing you want to store together. You can opt for a breathable garment bag while hanged.
BRUSHING YOUR SUIT.
Use a firm bristled brush and brush your suit before wearing it and before storing it. If you are not wearing your suit for a couple of weeks, take a few minutes and brush it.
RESTING YOUR SUIT.
You wore your suit today? You traveled with your suit in a bag? Your new suit just arrived in a parcel? Rest your suit for three days. It will help to shed wrinkles and your suit will be able to regain its initial shape. This little tip will also help you to keep your suit like new much longer and will avoid you frequent dry cleaning.